Finding joy in the simplest things which life offers.
During my last vacation in India, in November 2015, I visited the most incredible city, ‘The City of Pearls’ which is better known as Hyderabad. I have visited this city several times, but never really had the opportunity to experience all its sights. The only place I had visited until then was the beautiful Salarjung museum, India’s 3rd largest museum. It has one of the biggest collections of antiques from across the globe. This time however, I was determined to immerse myself in the cultural haven that Hyderabad is.
My first stop was the wonderful heritage site that is the iconic ‘Charminar’. ‘Charminar’ translates to “Four Towers” and was built in the year 1591 CE. A landmark in Hyderabad, it is a monument and mosque and was built by Muhammad Quli Qutb Shahi to celebrate the end of the deadly plague that was rampant at the time.
It was a bright and beautiful Sunday morning in early November. I woke up much earlier than I needed to and excitedly threw on my clothes and prepared myself mentally for my Hyderabad day out. I couldn’t wait to experience this wonderful landmark which I had read and heard so much about as a child. It’s odd how children in India spend all of their time in history class reading about these iconic locations within India but dream of going to foreign places instead. I used to be the same as well and it’s only in recent times that I have learnt to appreciate the treasures that are within my own Motherland. Sometimes we make the error of forgetting that some of the greatest treasures can be found in our own back yards.Travel is an itch I’ve had right since my adolescent days. I remember watching ‘Home Alone 2: Lost in New York’ and thinking “This is how I want to travel”, with not a care, like a kid in the candy store! From what I’d heard about Charminar, I knew that it was going to be chaotic - filled with people, traffic, hawkers and dust. Still, something about the hustle-bustle made me feel even more excited about seeing the ‘Charminar’. When we arrived, I saw the junction abuzz with activity. The traditional Nahari stalls, the boutique hotels, and the famous meena bazaar demonstrated a fine blend of historic culture and tradition kept alive by the Hyderabadi men and women in their loose, modest, starch-white kaftans.
We queued up to buy our tickets with people from all walks of life. There were tourists, local families, people who’d come on a casual day out with friends, and even lovers, looking for a nice, quiet corner in the noise of Hyderabad to steal a kiss. A person standing in front of me started a conversation with me. He was telling about how he has come all the way from Northern India to see this landmark and went on to describe his journey and all the things he had seen until then. I marvel sometimes at the simplicity and purity of the Indian populace who were content with their simple lifestyle. We’re always running after money, fame, power, and glory but here was someone who was just living in the moment – happy to be where he is.
As I was speaking with the man, I realized he was speaking to me in a strange way, as if I was from somewhere else. It was then that something hit me very hard. I stood out amongst all the people who were there. They thought I was a foreigner! Though I spoke in the local language something was not allowing me to blend into my surroundings. I guess I had just spent so long in a foreign land that I had allowed myself to become a pariah in my own nation. Pariah or not, I walked all over Hyderabad, admiring and experiencing every little thing, just a like a child who is awed by the wonders of this most beautiful world around.
The Charminar is a two storied building with a small mosque adorning the top floor. This mosque is situated on the west side of Charminar so that it faces Mecca, the holy pilgrimage of the Muslims. This mosque is said to be the oldest surviving mosque in city of Hyderabad. I wanted to visit this mosque and went towards it. Just as I was about to enter I was stopped by a male security man who told me that I could not enter as I was wearing a western outfit. I was in a pair of denims and had a simple cotton top on. Although I was fully covered, from head to toe, the security man would not allow me inside and began to be quite rude towards me and started to say things about my “type of people”. As a Spiritualist, I do not have any bias towards any one religion or God. I believe that every God whether it is Krsna, Jesus, Buddha or Allah is One Alone. I wanted to enter the mosque so I could offer my obeisance, but when I experienced this contrast of views I couldn’t accept it at that moment. It’s only much later that I realized that this world is full of contrasting views. I just need to let it be and revel in the moment, experiencing everything the way it is and not how I want it to be.
My next adventure was with Iranian Chai. I had always wanted to experience this tea but had been warned against walking alone into an Irani Café. For a woman, such a place is considered taboo, bordering on dangerous even. India is a great nation but it truly does have a long way to go when it comes to the safety and security of women. However, that was not going to stop me and I decided to venture out to find the famous ‘Nimrah Café & Bakery’. Thrilled, I stood in the middle of the café and sipped my first Irani Chai. It was one of the best teas I have ever had in my life, almost orgasmic! Of course, I was the only woman there and most definitely stuck out like a sore thumb. This tea cost a mere INR 15 (25 cents)! It’s a wonder that some of the world’s best things are still available at such low prices. A novelty to me but a daily requirement for another, the affordability that I saw allows a common man, who lives on an average wage, to survive in this brutal world of the rich.
I could see how happy people were in living a simple life, within their means. It is essential to live ‘in the here and the now’ even though that is possibly the most difficult thing to do. We’re always on the run but here I saw simple people, enjoying their today. They were all full of smiles, happy in the chaos all around them. It was a part of their life. They did not feel something was missing in their world. Their mind was not disturbed by the paraphernalia around them. This is a state which I strive to learn and attain in Spirituality. To live in the moment and go with the flow of life. Everything is accepted and treasured. If one gets to eat that day, they are thankful for the meal. If not, it is still fine. This is a very beautiful attitude and state to attain and to be in. I cherish my journey today, just observing and going with the flow teaches me something new at every moment.
Walking down the Hyderabadi streets, pondering my existence, I noticed the streets were filled with carts selling balloons – I was amused to see that this still exists, the age old tradition of selling balloons. Capturing these wonderful moments in my heart (and a few pictures for my collection), I went through the various shops in the street. Some were selling crockery, others old junk. Some sold clothes, footware, accessories, and some the very famous traditional meanakari bangles (bangles studded with pearls and stones, with uncut diamonds. To know more, here is the link to what these bangles are - Meenakari. Some vendors quenched the thirst of the people by selling the most famous ‘Nimbu Pani and Ganne Ka Ras’ (Lime Water and Sugar cane juice). It was crowded more than usual though, as I’d chosen a time when people were all swarming to celebrate the festival of lights – Diwali.
As the sun began to set, I realized I was starving and the one cuisine, the Deccani Cuisine, which represents Hyderabad was the only thing that would truly complete my Hyderabad adventure. Of course, which Hyderabadi experience is complete without its ‘Dum Biryani’? ‘Dum Biriyani’ is a rice dish with an amalgamation of flavors from Mughlai, Turkish and Arabian cuisine, delicately combined with the native Telugu and Marathwada cuisines. We tried our best to locate some authentic, age-old restaurant but could not find any. I was unfortunately not satisfied with the Biriyani I ate but I guess that’s the best thing about life – you don’t always get what you want but at least you get that experience! So, I am awaiting the day I find this authentic Muslim Dum Biryani. If anyone knows a good place to find any, do share it with me!
Hyderabad taught me one of the greatest lessons that I’ll cherish all my life. The greatest flavor to the exquisite dish that is this human life can only be attained by living in every moment as it comes. As I made my way to the Airport, having found happiness in the simple things, I cannot do anything but express my heartfelt thankfulness to my revered Master for my tasteful half-day tour at ‘Charminar’.
Thanks for reading my article and I hope you join me as I pen the next roller coaster ride in my journey through this vast and wonderful Universe.
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